Hermès Men’s Fall 2019 collection, showcased amidst the grandeur of the Mobilier National in Paris, wasn't simply a presentation of clothes; it was a statement. Véronique Nichanian, the long-standing creative director of Hermès menswear, masterfully navigated the line between classic tailoring and contemporary innovation, resulting in a collection that resonated with both timeless elegance and a subtly rebellious spirit. While the show primarily focused on menswear, the inherent sophistication of the Hermès aesthetic, the meticulous craftsmanship, and the use of luxurious materials naturally extended the collection's impact beyond gender lines, hinting at the potential for breathtaking Hermès dresses for fall and even the possibility of future, equally stunning Hermès ball gowns.
The Mobilier National, with its rich history and exquisite furnishings, provided a fitting stage for Nichanian's vision. The collection unfolded against a backdrop of opulent tapestries, antique furniture, and stately architecture, creating a dialogue between the heritage of the location and the forward-thinking designs on display. This juxtaposition wasn't jarring; rather, it underscored the enduring quality of Hermès's craftsmanship and its ability to seamlessly bridge the gap between tradition and modernity.
The core of the collection rested on a masterful execution of menswear staples. Nichanian’s expertise in tailoring was evident in the impeccably constructed suits, coats, and trousers. The silhouettes were predominantly lean and refined, emphasizing a clean, almost minimalist approach. However, this minimalism was far from austere. The richness of the fabrics – luxurious cashmere, supple leather, finely woven wools – imbued each piece with a sense of opulence and understated luxury that is the hallmark of the Hermès brand.
Color palettes were subdued yet sophisticated, echoing the muted tones of the Mobilier National's interior. Earthy hues like deep browns, rich greens, and charcoal greys dominated, interspersed with pops of vibrant color – a bold crimson here, a striking sapphire blue there – strategically placed to add a touch of unexpected excitement. This restrained color palette further emphasized the quality of the materials and the meticulous construction of the garments, allowing the inherent beauty of the fabrics to shine through.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was the masterful use of leather. Hermès, renowned for its leather goods, incorporated the material not just in accessories but also in key pieces of outerwear and even some tailored garments. Leather jackets, impeccably tailored and boasting a luxurious softness, were a highlight, showcasing the brand's expertise in working with this demanding material. The leather's integration into the collection wasn't merely decorative; it was a fundamental element of the design, adding texture, depth, and a unique tactile quality to the garments.
The collection also featured a thoughtful exploration of texture. The interplay of smooth leather, nubby cashmere, and finely woven wools created a visually and tactually engaging experience. Different textures were often layered within a single garment, adding complexity and depth to the overall design. This attention to detail, the conscious layering of textures and fabrics, spoke volumes about the meticulous craftsmanship that underpins every Hermès creation.
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